Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
